History of Cider
Have you ever wondered how modern cider became the drink it is today? Let’s take a stroll through its fascinating (and surprisingly ancient) history—starting with the heart of (most) ciders, the apples themselves.
The Ancient Beginnings of Apples and Cider
The origins of apples trace back a staggering 55 million years to a region that became modern-day Northwest China. Fossil evidence suggests that early members of the Rosaceae plant family, displaying apple-like traits, evolved here. Over the following millennia, thousands of apple species developed in Central Asia, and spread across the temperate climates of the Northern Hemisphere during interglacial periods. The European crab apple (Malus sylvestris), still found in Britain, is so old that it predates the concept of human cultivation.
By 10,000 BCE–following the end of the Ice Age–the great-ancestor of modern apples, Malus sieversii, began to migrate westward. Initially carried by animals, it later spread via human trade routes like the Silk Road. By 3,000 BCE, Mesopotamian farmers had mastered the grafting process, allowing them to selectively propagate apple varieties with desirable traits.
The Role of Greeks, Romans, and Early Fermentation of Cider
The domestication of apples gained momentum during the era of both the Greeks and the Romans. Both cultures cultivated apple orchards and carefully selected varieties for consumption and preservation. This period saw the emergence of Malus domestica, the descendants of which would become modern eating, cooking, and cider apples.
Fermented apple beverages also appeared during this time, with historical references to drinks like the Hebrew “shekar,” Greek “sikera,” and Roman “sicera,” all resembling early forms of cider. When the Romans arrived in Britain around 50 BCE, they introduced advanced orcharding techniques and new apple varieties. The local Celtic population, already making a crude cider from native crab apples, quickly adopted these innovations.
Cider Through the Middle Ages
The period between 400 CE and 1066 CE saw limited documentation of cider production in Britain. However, in parts of mainland Europe, such as the Bay of Biscay, the tradition of cider-making, supported by trade and the resulting exchange of knowledge, persisted.
The Norman conquest of England in 1066 significantly influenced cider production. The Normans introduced improved techniques for tree cultivation and fermentation, along with tannin-rich apple varieties. By the 12th century, orchards were widely recorded across England. Notably, cider became culturally significant, with records from Sussex in 1320 AD describing its use in baptism ceremonies.
Cider’s Golden Age: 17th and 18th Centuries
The 17th century marked a high point for cider in Britain. As wine imports became unreliable due to European conflicts, cider emerged as a popular alternative, even earning the nickname “England’s indigenous wine.” New apple varieties, such as the Herefordshire Redstreak, were developed specifically for cider production.
Important texts, including Evelyn’s Pomona (1664) and Worlidge’s Vinetum Britannicum (1678), documented cider culture and techniques. Advances in glass manufacturing, led by Sir Kenelm Digby, enabled in-bottle fermentation, a method later associated with Champagne. Despite these developments, challenges arose, such as cases of lead poisoning from poorly maintained cider-making equipment, which caused illnesses like “Devon Colic.”
Industrialization and Cider’s Decline
The Industrial Revolution brought significant changes to cider production. Large-scale manufacturing began to replace traditional methods, making cider widely available but often at the expense of quality. Ultimately, a cider tax in 1763 – introduced by Lord Bute’s Government to reduce the National Debt – additionally crippled cider’s presence in pubs and houses. Such a measure so unwelcomed that it sparked riots in western England, forcing the Government to repeal the tax by 1766.
In 1887, HP Bulmer Ltd of Hereford began commercial cider production, focusing mass produced, clean and replicable cider styles. Rather than cider being a by-product of the agricultural cycle, cider is now a modern, mass-produced drink, created with characteristics that could be replicated at any time of year, rather than being limited to harvest periods.
At this same time small, regional cidermakers started to be purchased or bought out by larger producers, beginning a big shift in the cider production industry, with a few large mass producers in control of most of cider trade. This left most small regional cidermakers unable to compete.
Revival in the 20th Century
By the mid-20th century, the reputation of cider had declined, and the drink became associated with inexpensive, mass-produced and low quality beverages. Despite this, between the 1950s and 1990s, the cider trade continued to grow in volume and their presence in supermarkets and pubs is ubiquitous, with one caveat; Instead of traditional ciders expressing a range of genuine flavours and personalities, most commercially available cider is mass produced using non-traditional techniques such as adding sugar, using concentrated or processed juices or the addition of artificial flavourings. This often leads to an extremely sweet, sparkling drink that has little in common with traditional cider.
One such product, made by the C&C Group owned Magners Cider, found success in rebranding their cider as a fresh and modern drink, leading to a surge in popularity, fueled by marketing campaigns like “The Magners Effect,”. Flavored ciders became popular, especially among younger adult drinkers.
Alongside the more commercial products however, there is also a much welcome renewed interest in traditional cider, particularly among those seeking authentic, craft-made beverages. Organizations like CAMRA (Campaign for Real Ale) established the APPLE Committee in 1988 to promote traditional cider-making methods.
Cider Today
Today, cider is on the cusp of a renaissance, focused on the rediscovery of real cider, especially amongst those seeking to explore all of its potential. Compared to other established types of drinks (wine or beer for instance), cider is a smaller player, but the enthusiasm and market for it is growing every year.
Craft cideries continue to explore new techniques and flavors while embracing heritage methods. More and more cider experts advocate for Real Cider, its history and cultural legacy. Festivals, competitions, and sustainability initiatives have elevated cider’s cultural status, making sure that everyone has the opportunity to taste a glass of this wonderful nectar at any opportunity.
So what is missing for cider to reach the same status of wine and beer? The answer is knowledge and time. Even in places like the UK or France, with a rich cider heritage, there is a need to dispel the reputation of mass produced, artificial ‘ciders’ and reintroduce people to all of the varieties of styles and nuances in flavours that we can find in real cider. Whilst some other countries may lack a direct history with cider, there has never been a better time for this wonderful drink to expand in new directions, something already happening in Italy where traditional cider making has experienced a boom in popularity in the last 10 years.